Notes from the North

12 October 2026

Four days on the coastal trail

The forecast promised two dry days out of four. We got one and a half, which on this coast counts as a good week. The trail follows the shoreline for most of its length and climbs inland only where the cliffs make it impossible to continue along the water.

Ferries in the shoulder season run on a reduced timetable, and the timetable itself is more of a suggestion. Carry a day of extra food and do not plan anything for the evening you are supposed to arrive.

Packing: a shell that actually keeps water out, wool layers, a small stove, and a waterproof bag for the camera. I took one body and one lens and did not miss anything else.